Flattening stones and sharpening plane iron.
Time to do some serious work with my 70mm kanna. That is a wide blade and its edge will be no straighter than the flatness of my stones. First thing is to flatten the stones.
For this, I’ve got a piece of glass and some medium rock tumbling grit. I used a hot glue gun to lay a bead around the perimeter of the glass to keep the slurry from going everywhere. Glass on top of plywood on top of bench to make sure it stays flat.
Before I started, penciled hatch marks to see how bad things are. As you can see, they were bad. Grind for a bit, clean off grit, pencil again and check. By the end, in great shape.
Important: once done, grind a quick chamfer on the edges of the stone. They can become very sharp and I have cut myself on the edges in the past.
Also did the same for the 4000 and 6000 stones. Finally, a thorough cleaning of the stones under running water. Need to make sure all the rubbing grit is removed.
Once I got the iron and chip breaker out of the plane, time to sharpen. That’s when I realized I must have been lazy one day. I checked the edge of the iron against my Starrett ruler and it was far from straight and had two small chips. Not shown is working the iron on the glass plate similar to the flattening the stones. Problem fixed.
You can see how I hold the iron against the stone. Three fingers pressing down along the cutting edge, palming the rest of the blade in my hand. One hand does most of the downward press while the other will do most of the horizontal motion.
Back and forth until I can feel a small burr across the back of the blade. Now onto the next stone. But first I wash the stone and blade to make sure I remove all the previous slurry.
Not needed for the coarse stone (if you call 600 grit coarse), but the fine and polishing stones need to be prepped with a Nagura stone. This is the small stone shown. This is rubbed across the wet sharpening stone to make sure the surface is flat and to build up a slurry. First is working the back side of the iron to remove the burr from the previous grid. Then as before for the bevel face.
I usually work some, clean and check the progress and dress again the stone with the Nagura stone. This is helpful as it will reveal where I’m working the iron. I can adjust which fingers are applying the most pressure so I get an evenly polished edge.
Final step is to strop the back and the bevel edges on a leather scrap with Yellow polishing compound.
Not shown, the chip breaker is also done at the same time. I want firm and definitive contact between the iron and chip breaker in use.